The Final Countdown

It's finally here- one month left. I figure that this is a great opportunity to look back at my semester so far and what I have learned. One of the first ways to look at the past 4 months is a pro/con list of South Africa.

Things I like about SA:

-Feeling of community and family. You can see this in the concept of ubuntu, which I have referenced multiple times. Also in the isiXhosa language. In isiXhosa, you refer to every woman and man older than yourself as mama and tata. And for everyone younger or your own age you call them sisi (sister) or bhuti (brother). It is such a beautiful concept that everyone you meet is part of your family. Even the women in the town will greet me as "hello my daughter", "hello my love". There is such a sense of love in South Africa that is truly beautiful. 

-The landscape. I got to see this especially during our road trip, but South Africa is truly a beautiful country. 

-The resilience. Apartheid ended just 20 years ago, and the reconciliation and progress this country has made is unbelievable  By no means is everything perfect, but overall it appears to have been a smooth transition. 

-Rugby. I absolutely love this sport. The physicality  the fact that there are basically no rules, and the environment in general is absolutely addictive.

-The accent. Need I say more? 

-Nelson Mandela. Seriously who comes out of twenty seven years in a maximum security prison to become President? And an extremely loving and forgiving one at that. 

Things I don't like about SA:

-Birds. There are sooo many birds in Grahamstown and they have no concept of time. I swear I almost hear more birds at night than I do during the day. 

-Spiders. Especially the huge ones that hide in my room. I could definitely do without them.

-People constantly being barefoot. In class, the library, restaurants. It is weird and really gross. 

-Rhodes class schedule. Classes are extremely sporadic and are at different times everyday. For example I have history: Monday:10:30-11:45, Tuesday: 11:25-13:05, Wednesday: 7:45-8:30, 11:25-13:03, Thursday: 8:40-9:25. Literally a different time everyday.

-Beggars. It is really awkward when you are walking to the grocery store and are asked by five different people for money. Obviously you cannot give to every person you see. It is also extremely difficult when they are children. I have been warned by everyone here not to give to children because the money goes straight to drugs, but it is easier said than done when you have a five year old following you down the street. 

-The vast inequality. South Africa and even Grahamstown is plagued with vast inequality. In Grahamstown alone, you will find one neighborhood with mansions, a country club, and private boarding schools, and just five minutes away you will be in the township. South Africa is truly one of the most unequal countries in the world. 
-Water/ electricity shortages. Now I know I was suppose to expect this one, but when suddenly you have to go five days without water or the town went over its quota on electricity and you have no power for ten hours, you realize how truly thankful you are when you have it. 

I also realize how much I have to be thankful for. While I am sure that Europe would have been a lot of fun, I could not have been more happy that I choose South Africa, and Grahamstown in particular. I have been given the chance to fully integrate myself into the community, live among the locals, learn the language, and truly be able to consider myself a member of this university and community. I no longer just see myself as an American in Grahamstown, but as a Rhodes student. 

I have gotten to form relationships that will last me for years to come, and some that will stay with me the rest of my life. I have been exposed to challenges I never thought I would face, and some of the realities that exist in other countries. I have seen racism and sexism as well as love and compassion. I have learned things that I never knew I didn't know. I have grown so much and have learned so much, that I truly think I will come back from this experience a more aware of some of the issues South Africa, and Africa as a whole face, as well as being more aware of how much I dont know. 

One thing I have taken away is an understanding of how our media tends to portray things. I can remember the TIME cover from the beginning of March that publicized "South Africa's culture of violence". While South Africa may not be the safest country in the world, honestly what is? If I was to believe everything I was told before coming here, than I would have missed out on one of the best experiences of my life. 

While unfortunately the last month will be filled with exams, something no one looks forward to, I cannot wait to keep building relationships and exploring Grahamstown. Four months down, one to go. 

International Week

International Week at Rhodes was 18-24 May 2013. The goal was to promote internationalism at the university. The week started off with the International Parade! Each residence hall was assigned a different country (for countries where there were no students at Rhodes) and had to dress up and learn about that country. Lucky for me, being American doesn't require too much preparation. I woke up early on Saturday morning, threw on jeans and my flag tank and headed down to walk in the parade. Despite having to wake up at 8am on a Saturday, it was a really cool experience getting to walk all over  town with all the different flags flying proudly.

The Dutch girls!

Gemma and her flag

Gus and I

The rest of the week was filled with demonstations, lectures, and so forth. Overall it was a really cool week to be an international! 

She Just Turned 21: A Tale of Three Birthdays

I was lucky enough that I got to spend my 21st birthday here in South Africa, and I was even luckier that I got to celebrate it three times! 

Our first celebration was on May 12 and was spent with Geoff (our advisor here) and his family. Geoff picked us up bright and early and took us to his community church. It was about six families who attend once a month with two ministers, one from Mozambique and the other from Cape Town. 

It was a very unique service since it was dedicated to us Boston girls. The priest spent most of the service saying how we were in solidarity with one another and that South Africa will always love Boston. It was truly a beautiful service and gave many of us the closure we needed after the bombings. 

Towards the end of the service, they asked me to come front and center. I guess before we had gotten there Geoff had told them that it was my 21st birthday so they wanted to give me a special blessing. The priest stood with me and prayed that I would continue to prosper and thanked God that I had been blessed with such a wonderful 21 years of life. He also thanked God that my path had led me to South Africa and how blessed the country was that I was apart of it. It was one of the more heartfelt things and I can truly say that most people dont get a special blessing from a South African priest on their 21st birthday. 

After the service, we all went outside where Geoff's wife had baked me a birthday cake. We sat around with the congregation eating cake and I received congratulations from all the members. After a great hour of socializing, we headed back to town and went out to lunch. Since it was Mother's Day, Geoff's sons joined us to celebrate with their mother. 

The BC girls and our psedo-mom!

Once we finished our beautiful lunch, we headed back out of town to Geoff's farm! We spend the afternoon driving around and getting to see the landscape! It was truly a spectacular day!!!

Geoff showing us a map of his landschape

The Protea (National flower of South Africa)

On Monday, it was my actual birthday. My day was filled with hugs, letters, sprinkles in my coffee. Everyone made it a special day. For my birthday I decided to just have a casual dinner with some friends. Little did I know but Jenna had planned a surprise dinner for me with all the international girls! I walked into the restaurant and saw 14 people sitting around the table! It was absolutely wonderful. I got showered with letters, cake, and little presents. Birthday #2 (the real one) was a success. 

The other birthday girl, SoSo

And finally the bar party. Wednesday night is the big going out night in Grahamstown so I decided that Wednesday would be the night I would do a proper 21st birthday. Needless to say everything went as planned and I celebrated my 21st in true American style. 

What this birthday has made me realize is how many wonderful friends I have made here in Grahamstown. For them to plan a surprise dinner, celebrate three times with me, buy me a crown and button, I truly am blessed beyond words!

Advice for Students (or really anyone) Going Abroad.

One of my good friends Paige leaves for Paris tomorrow and I wanted to quickly send her a message about things I have learned from being abroad and things that I would want to pass on to someone else. I decided to post the list here for anyone who is thinking of studying abroad or for anyone who knows someone about to go abroad. And so here it is, my advice for living or studying abroad.

1. Journal or blog. This can be for your eyes only-- no one needs to see it (unless you want them to). You are going to want to look back and remember your experience. Being able to look back on what you felt, what you saw, who you met. Those are the stories you are going to want to remember. I have done this on every single one of my trips (Denmark, Dominican Republic, and now South Africa), and it is truly one of the coolest souvenirs. It allows you to process your experience and helps you to remember funny stories to share with people back home. It is so much fun to look back on this at the end of your trip. You will see that the things you were so nervous about, now you dont even think twice about them. It is a fun way to see how much you've grown and the things you have experienced. 

2. Take a TON of pictures. You honestly can never take enough. Granted you may not need 15 photos of the awesome latte you had at lunch while you overlooked the ocean, but at least this way you can pick your favorite one. (Please do not be the person who goes abroad and posts 20 pictures of the same tree, building, person, sunset. That's great if you want to keep all 20 on your computer, but I am more than ok with seeing one, two at max).

3. Go out of your comfort zone. You have an amazing opportunity to learn about a brand new culture and country, take advantage of it. Go out and talk to the locals or go out to coffee at a close cafe by yourself. Why not? 

4. NEVER miss an opportunity to go out in order to sleep or study. You do not want to look back on your experience and think "wow, I am so glad I was so well rested on that trip". That is boring. As stated you have been given an opportunity to experience new things, meet new people-- DO IT. Go for a picnic in a park, stay up all night watching the stars, go to a club on a Monday. 

5. Still talk to people back home, but don't let it become a priority. Everyone will still be here when you get back. Shoot a quick message or email to your family and close friends, and then go have fun. After all, you didn't go abroad to talk to people back home. Also you will have much better stories to tell if you actually did things. Conversations get boring pretty quickly if all you've done is sit in your room facebook chatting your roommates. 

6. Spend money on silly things and eat really good food. You have the rest of your life to work and make money. Relax and spend it. Don't leave with any regrets. 

7. (Note: This one is for students traveling with a group). Get to know the people in your group. There may be some really awesome folks. On the same note, if someone is being a negative Nancy, don't hang out with them. Abroad is your experience. This isn't the time to keep giving the same person multiple chances (as harsh as this may sound). Be civil to them, but surround yourself with people who will enhance your experience, not dampen it. Also, talk with people in your group about your experience. I can guarantee that someone else is feeling the exact same thing, or at the very least, they can sympathize and help you process it. Abroad is a time that culture shock and crazy epiphanies happen, don't keep them to yourself! 

8. Take the good and the bad. No one's abroad experience is perfect, and if they tell you it is, they're lying. There will be some things that you hate or maybe a bad experience, but that is part of living in a new country. Don't let the small things ruin the bigger picture. 

9. Safety needs to be a top priority at all times. While most of my experience is within South Africa, this is definitely a universal thing. In my experience, it is when you get lazy that things happen. Always keep two eyes open and make sure not to get extremely drunk at bars. It is wicked easy to spot an American and that is what perps are looking for. Walk confidently and always act like you know where you are going. Please don't be that person who is clutching their purse so tightly and are acting like every person you are passing is going to attack you. Not only to you allow yourself to be easily identified as an easy target, but it can be extremely insulting (especially here in SA). Just use common sense (aka don't walk alone at night). Also NEVER go to an ATM alone. The buddy system is your best friend. Finally, let people know where you are. If you are going for a walk, leave a note. Or if you're going away for a weekend, let someone know. 

10. Ladies, being an American woman will attract some unwanted attention, be careful of this. While it may be extremely flattering, many men abroad think it is a big accomplishment to "hook-up" with an American woman (I have talked to friends studying abroad all over the globe...it is the same thing everywhere). Again, don't assume everyone is out to get you, but be aware of this. 

11. Some people will hate you simply because you're American. Let's face it, our country has done some things that many people in other countries do not agree with. And unfortunately, many of these people like to associate any American they meet with the acts of our government. One of my friends here's home university told her that going abroad is an opportunity to either break or reinforce stereotypes about Americans. This is an opportunity to be an ambassador for your country. How you represent yourself will leave an impression. For some people, you may be the first American they have ever met and they will form an opinion off of you. You can either show them that all Americans are not self-centered and that we can be open to new ideas and cultures, or you can prove the stereotypes right. Let your actions speak louder than your words. Going abroad is an awesome opportunity to give people in other countries a chance to reevaluate their opinions of us, or it can be an opportunity to prove them right. The choice is yours, but I would suggest proving them wrong. Remember that other Americans will be there after you, and that the kid who sits next to you in history may be the next Prime Minister. 

12. The secret to having the best experience: being open and asking questions. By realizing that your way isn't the only way, you allow yourself to be open to the experience. Once this happens, there is the potential for you to learn more than you ever thought was possible. You can learn about other religions, cultures, new cooking tips, the world is your oyster. Also don't be afraid to ask questions. What I have experienced is that people are not offended when you ask them a question as long as it is in an honest way. People can tell when you are being rude or condescending.  They can also tell when you are genuinely curious and want to learn more about them. People love to share their stories if they feel that it is a safe space to do so. Go out of your way to say good morning to your barista or the woman at the bookstore. You never know what you can learn from them. 

13. Don't just leave your experience as a cool memory or as a good story. Try to find ways of integrating what you have learned with your life back home. What good is having this experience if you do nothing with it. One of the Jesuits at BC said, "the sole reason for learning is to give it away, and in doing so only then can you keep it to stay". What is so cool is that there is no one way to do this. For example, I have decided to use my blog as a way of sharing my experiences here in South Africa. I try to share the things that I have learned so that others who have not been here can still gain something from my experience. The way I see it is that I am not doing this community, my experience, or myself justice if I just keep what I have learned and experienced to myself. So go abroad, learn a lot, and then bring it back and share it. Teach others about what you learn. PLEASE be careful that it does not come across as "well when I was abroad...". That attitudes tends to be accompanied by an air of superiority, whether intentional or not. Find ways of working in your experience so that others can learn without feeling like you are belittling them. 

Obviously everyone's experience is unique and there is no perfect concoction of do's and don'ts for going abroad. This has just been what I have learned in my experiences. 

A note for students going abroad. When you are talking to people back home, try not to undervalue their experiences. I was talking to my close friend here, Jenna, about this yesterday. When you are talking to friends back home, most of this will say that nothing is going on back home and they only want to hear about your trip (cough cough journaling helps you to remember your best stories). Or, they will tell you about what is going on back home and it is hard to make yourself care. For example, two of my friends were fighting over the same guy all semester. It was so easy for me to dismiss this and tell them that there were bigger problems like the HIV epidemic in South Africa. However, it is important to remember that everyones experiences have value, no matter how silly they seem. The quickest way to ruin friendships abroad is to stop caring about things back home. No matter how petty they seem, remember if you were back home, they would be huge. Just because you have seen new things does not mean you get to dismiss the problems of others. Remember that your friends are supporting you abroad, make sure to return the support. 

ABC's of South Africa

One of my friends here posted this on her blog a few months ago and I thought it was too creative to not borrow! With a few personal modifications, here are the ABC's of South Africa!

A is for Africa.

B is for boerewor, a delicious spicy sausage with hot onions and tomato sauce on a bun (I may have broken my vegetarian vows for one of these...). B is also for Beit House, my lovely residence this semester, and Boston College, my university that let me come here for five months!

The ladies of Beit House.

Boston College ladies! 

C is for chilled, the vibe that you find all over SA. For example, "How was your day", "Oh it was super chilled". C is also for Cape Town, where we spent our term vacation!

D is for donuts, which are delivered hot and fresh at 9pm. The cinnamon is the best, and don’t let anyone tell you otherwise. Basically you text this number with your address and your order and a delivery man on a motor bike shows up between 6-9pm with your delivery. Needless to say this is how we've gotten through many study nights. D is also for digs, which is the name for off-campus housing. "You live in Digs?" "Ja man". 

E is for Enocent Msindo, my lovely, slightly insulting at time, history professor. I have had him for both Africa in Crisis and Themes in Zimbabwean History. Whenever he talks about the United States, he prefaces it with "well in Chelsea's country...". Thanks for that man. E is also for the Eastern Cape, the province I have been living in, and elephants, the beautiful creatures I got to ride in the beginning of the semester. 

F is for Friars, a crazy bar patroned by many students (including myself) on the weekend.

G is for Grahamstown, the home of Rhodes University, and Geoff, our wonderful advisor.

H is for hadedas the most annoying bird you will ever come across. Literally my worst nightmare. Also Hogsback, where we spent a weekend pretending we were in Lord of the Rings.

I is for Indian Ocean. My first time taking a dip in this ocean was our trip to Kenton-on-Sea. I is also for internationals, how we are affectionately refereed as. 

J is for Jabez, the wonderful center that gives support to people infected with HIV/AIDS, and their families. This is where I have done my community engagement all semester! Also my favorite jam jars (a weekend staple).

K is for Keen. It is impossible to have a conversation with a South African without hearing keen used at least five times. It can be a question, statement, or comment. 

L is for left, the side of the road that you are supposed to drive and walk on, Larry, my favorite bartender at the Rat, and La Trattoria, where we go for 2:1 pasta every Tuesday.

M is for Monument, a beautiful site at the very top of the bowl that is Grahamstown. You can see everything! Also a beautiful place to watch sunsets with your friends and a bottle of wine.

N is for Nelson Mandela, the beloved former president of South Africa.

O is for overalls, one of the fun traditions at Rhodes. At a field party (on the rugby field) everyone wear's their overalls. Rules: you can never wash them. The dirtier they are, the older a student is.

P is for Pirates, a chill hangout with cheap Jam Jars. Unfortunately it has been closed down for rumors of LSD in the punch...P is also for protea, the national flower!

Q is for Q, which is a specific click used in the Xhosa language. We struggle with this one!

R is for Rhodent, a nickname for a Rhodes student, rugby, the most popular sport in South Africa, rand, the national currency, and the Red Cafe, a favorite hot spot in between classes! 

S is for shoeless a very popular trend at Rhodes. I will go to lectures or to the library and half the people are barefoot. It's weird. S is also for South Africa, the beautiful country I got to call my home for five months and Sesa, my wonderful barista who knows my order like the back of his hand.

T is for time, specifically Africa time. Africa time basically means that everyone is late for everything. For example sometimes store will be closed for no reason, busses will show up two hours late, or a friend wont show up. Africa time is you do what you want when you feel like it. It has definitely taken some getting adjusted to after the hustle and bustle of Boston life. T is also for third year, which is the South African version of junior year.

U is for ubuntu, an African philosophy that stresses that we are only human through our interaction with other people. Our humanity is intertwined, we give meaning to each other.

V is for vac, or vacation, which was when I got to road trip across South Africa for nineteen days... Those were the days.

W is for water, or lack there of. I can remember the water shortage before break when we had a week with no water. Needless to say we weren't happy campers. Also it is rumored that drinking the water in Grahamstown will give you dementia. Mom and dad, it looks like you may be taking care of me. 

X is for Xhosa, a group of people who live mostly in the Eastern Cape. IsiXhosa is the language that I attempted and continued to fail miserably at. 

Y is for YOSOA, the battle cry for the international students. Meaning: You Only South Africa Once, and also "You American?" the question I get daily.

The internationals our first day in Grahamstown. 

Z is for Zimmmmmmmmmm, aka Zimbabwe, where many Rhodents are from, also the subject which kicked my butt on a weekly basis.